Monday, May 2, 2016

Bouldering in Parque la Huasteca


Over the past 6 months i've been venturing weekly into the back of #ParqueLaHuasteca to develop some boulders that a friend put me onto. The boulders themselves are a bullet hard, river washed conglomerate limestone and offer incredible 3D climbing in different styles from super steep overhangs to thin vertical faces and even cracks. I've been making videos and documenting what i've climbed with tentative grades. It would be awesome if others wanted to check them out and give me some feedback! Check out the topo information and beta videos below, let me know if you send something! Boulders of Guitarritas A forty five minute walk past the camping area of El Caracol are a number of river washed boulders. The boulders are bullet hard due to the weathering and offer a challenge for climbers of all abilities. Walking back in the canyon, it's possible to see ancient Huichol paintings on boulders and memorials to lost climbers. Please show the utmost respect to the history of the area and do not touch or disturb the paintings or memorials in anyway. Access and Approach From the parking area at the end of Guitarritas canyon. Follow the river gap farther into the canyon using the path on the far wall. The path is located approximately 30m down hill from the gate that leads up to El Caracol. Once through the gap, follow the river for around 1km, going left at the fork afters Don Victors Ranch. The boulders will begin to appear at the sides of the canyon. Continue further into the canyon to reach the other bouldering areas. La Entrada The first few boulders you see as you enter into the canyon fork. Traverse Wall has a number of goods lines but unfortunately many of the easier ones don’t top out (at least not without fighting the cactus.) It is located directly opposite the first boulders and has a few easy slab problems and one stellar roof one that is a must if you're climbing the grade. Traverse Wall Located on the lefthand side as you enter the canyon 1. Savage, V0 * 
Sit start though side pulls 2. Mamasita Culo Delight V2
 Sit start on small crimps and power up to the hole. Technical to the lip ***
 3. Amado por muchos, Odiado por unos pocos, V1 Begin with the obvious pocket and slap up the positive side pulls to the lip. 4. Privileged Choss V0- 
 Begin low on the large flake and climb through friable crimps to the lip.
 5. Yosemite Choss Pile, v0- Begin in the large hue and climb up through the left facing crimps
 6. Cuchara con Tigo, V3 
 Start with bitt hands on the crystal rail, move up into the side pulls and make a big move to the mono pocket.
 7. Sticks and Stones, V2. 
 Sit start up the crack to the lip 8. Systemic Lies, V2 
 Either dyno or make technical moves up to a good edge. Finish on the lip. 9. Double crossed, V3 ***
 Begin on Systemic Lies, traversing left and finishing up Savage. 10. Liberacion, V2 **
 This problems begins on the boulder to the right. Sit start on side pulls and make a large throw to a good edge and top out Spanglish Boulder Located directly opposite the traverse wall on the right. 1. Si, Si, Si, V0 
 Stand start on underclings and move up on delicate feet. 2. Fahitas, V0
 Stand on the slab and use the good side pull out right to reach the top. 3. Con Yo V0.  
Climb the slab on good pockets. 4. Soy la Tormenta, V8 ***
 Begin with both hands on the low side pull. Move up through powerful moves in to slots and finish direct on the sloping top out.  

Camp Boulders Located just past the tribute to fallen climbers and the Huichol paintings. This is the giant highball boulders on the right hand side. Down climb by using the gulley on the right. Cell Block Boulder This is the large prow that sits on the right handside as you walk up river. 1. La Gallina de Oro, V4 

Sit start on odd shaped holds and make hard moves to reach the crack and the top out.
 2. One cam top out, V1 (5.9) ***
 Climb the obvious crack from a sit start by a lay backing the edge or by solid hand jams. 3. Enemigo Público No.1, V7 ***
 Begin down low in the crack and climb the thin, right trending seem to a big move around the arete. Compress up the blunt arete. FA Gaz Leah 2016 4. Fissure, V1 
Lay back the crack until you can stem the rock and reach out left. 5. Peliroojo Magika, V1 
 Climb the slab to a long crux move reaching over the roof to a good edge. Solitary Confinement This area begins after passing through the beautiful river washed canyon constriction. The area is easily distinguished by the incredible roof boulder in the middle of the riverbed.

Sanctuary Boulder 1. Paola, V11 *** Beginning on the flake and finger pocket at the back of the cave. Climb out through the small pockets using a combination of body tension and nifty footwork. Reaching the double mono’s, keep composed and fire for the lip via a big more or an inverted toe hook. FA Gaz Leah 2016
 
2. Corazón del Puño, V8 ***
 Start with the flake, finger pocket at the back of the cave and make your way out the roof direct with powerful lock offs to a big lunge. FA Gaz Leah 2016 
3.Susurros del Destino, V11? A project starting on the same holds as Paola, move out right of the cave. 4. La Guerra De los Tontos, V2. Climb the giant flake to a loose top. Hard to spot.
FA Juan “Oso” Alberto 2016




Activista Boulder Located behind the sanctuary boulder on the left hand side. 1. Misa de Gallo, V2. From a sit start on the big block. Climb up through the solid conglomerate holds using the good side pulls out left. 2. El protagonista, V3. 
 Begin the same large block as the previous line but move out right and finish.
 3. Verdad a Prueba de Balas, V7. 
From the hueco below the giant glued rock. Move up and out into the easier moves above. There are at least 3 ways to climb this boulder!
 4. Project Finish, V9? Starting on the thin holds between the Verdad a Prueba de Balas and Slap Problem. 5. Quiero ver a Gaz, V6. Begin on the obvious good right hand hold and you left on one of the smooth crimps. Stand tall and make a one move wonder to a good hold, move out left to finish.

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