Quit your job and go climbing

While on my recent travels to Utah in order to attend the annual Summer Outdoor Retailer event, I was lucky enough to get a viewing of the latest Reel Rock Film Tour - Valley Uprising from Big Up Productions and Sender Films.

Such an event is something to behold. Since it's beginning in 2006, Reel Rock Film Tour has been screened in hundred of locations and inspired millions of people. This time around was no exception!

As we followed the crowds towards the plaza it became clear this was far from a simple film viewing. This was a gathering of the climbing industries most influential and ambitious characters. Those who had dedicated their lives to a passion that gave them a sense of achievement and belonging. Pushing the physical and mental boundaries of our sport!

Wondering around the small mezzanine out front of the Megaplex 12 Cinema, I brushed elbows with many of americas climbing heroes. Lynn Hill, Dean Potter, Hans Florine and Ceder Wright were just a handful of those enjoying the h'orderves and local brews put on by the Reel Rock crew.

The effect of bringing together this band of people who emanate such enthusiasm and camaraderie was mind blowing. It was incredible to see how such a diverse and geographically separated group of individuals that were so tightly knit through their passion of rock climbing.

Stepping into the theatre, you could sense the audiences anticipation for the film which had been some 7 years in the making. Unlike the rock tours previous years, they showed just one film, "The Valley Uprising - Yosemite's Rock Climbing Revolution." This was a tribute to Yosemite Valley, to its history, its people and its unique culture that has been in the climbing spotlight since the 1950's. 

Tracing back the valley's climbing lineage, you're taken on an journey into the depths of the climbers mindset beginning with the golden age of Yosemite climbing right up to the present day. Many of the valleys unsung heroes are featured in this video that is guaranteed to leave you feeling more than a little amped for your next adventure. I for one was ready to quit the 9 to 5 and follow the romantic notion of a vagabond lifestyle!

The profound effect of the tour re-lit a fire in my belly that's been buried inside for some time, fearful of failure and the unknown. Although the times have changed considerably since the dirt bag lifestyle of the 70's, this journey into history shows that each generation finds their own adventure if only they're brave enough to take the leap!

The tour begins in a couple of weeks and I would make sure you don't miss this! You can check out locations and dates by visiting the Reel Rock Tour website.

Assualt on El Capitan: Wings Of Steel

In 1982, two young guns, Mark Smith and Richard Jensen visited California's Yosemite Valley with the dream of establishing a first ascent on the global climbing stage of El Capitan.

After a record breaking thirty-nine days on the wall, they succeeded in pioneering a new route up the southwest face, naming it Wings Of Steel. The route journeyed over the infamous Great Slab, a glassy 1,000ft of featureless rock considered unclimbable by many.

The battle to climb the seemingly unconquerable route was fought on many fronts. The climbing aside, Mark and Richard were the subject of verbal harassment, threats of violence and sabotage to the climbing safety equipment from the territorial locals who were less than welcoming. 

The route went unrepeated for almost 30 years while the bitter controversy rumbled on. Disputes about the route would appear in online forums where climbers would speculate the ethics of the ascent. A handful second ascents was attempted, but failed before summiting, unable to overcome the difficulties of the route on its lower pitches. Yet the critics would continue to slander Mark and Richards efforts, denouncing it to be little more than a convoluted "bolt ladder".

Some three decades later, Yosemite veteran Ammon McNeely took up the challenge to repeat the route. Drawn to the climb by its mystery, he would lay to rest the rancorous stories that litter the internet. For Mark and Richard, Ammon's ascent would be the vindication they had desired for all these years.

Along with climbing partner Kait Barber and videographer Jeff Vargen, Assault on El Capitan tells a candid history of the routes establishment and the difficulties each team faced on their journey to the top. Featuring interviews from the key players in the story including climbing legends Ron Kauk and Steve Grossman, the film is more narrative than action thriller!

While the film does a great job at shedding light on the Wings of Steel debacle, it's clear that this film is made for the climbing community that has significant interest in the happenings of the valley. Non-climbers can also enjoy the film, being wowed by much of the portaledge footage, asking the regular question of "Do they sleep up there?" and finding humour in the ridiculousness of the ego's squabbling over "a piece of rock". 

It's truly embarrassing to be part of a community that would carry out many of the atrocious deeds they did to a fellow climber when viewed through the lens of a human and non climber. With this film, Jeff Vargen has achieved a compelling and educational insight into the climbing world that I hope will finally lay to rest the personal grudges between everyone involved and begin the healing process for the future of the sport. 

Assault on El Capitan

Produced by Accidental Productions, written and directed by Jeff Vargen

USA 2013, 68 minutes

Reviewed by Gaz Leah

Yosemite Bouldering: An alternative view of the valley

Entering Yosemite Valley is something you can never forget...

The views are sculptured right out of a dream and as the white granite wall rise up all around, you catch your first glimpse of the iconic Half Dome and El Capitan face in the distance.

John Muir once wrote of Yosemite, saying; 

"None can escape its charms. Its natural beauty cleans and warms like a fire, and you will be willing to stay forever in one place like a tree."
- John of the Mountains: The Unpublished Journals of John Muir, (1938),

Surrounded by this beauty, It's easy to see how many people over look the many boulders that litter the floor below. On a recent trip I took to the valley, I was lucky enough to be with a fantastic group of people that have embraced both the big wall and boulder culture.

Kevin Jorgeson and Carlo Traversi are childhood friends and have been climbing in the valley together since they were young. Kevin in particular, has been here A LOT. Since the age of 16, he has visited every year, repeating many of the hard problems including the notoriously tough problem Dominated, V13.

Kevin Jorgeson on the ultra classic, Bachar Cracker

During a rest day, they gave me the "Classics" bouldering tour. After a short time, it became clear that there is an incredible mass of established bouldering here and even more than had yet to be climbed. We visited problems such as the The King, Hexentric, Bachar Cracker, The Force, Thriller,  Dominated and everyones favourite, Midnight Lightning!

Can you guess what it is?

If you've never climbed on Yosemite granite, it's friction and density are amazing! The rock deals out incredibly creative problems, on massive boulders that have just the right amount of holds to make them possible. 

The valley offers a lifetime of boulder problems yet to be sent that are easily accessible, but until recently, it had been suffering from a drought of enthusiasm from climbers. That is until a couple of weeks ago, when Carlo Traversi turned up in his magical land dolphin.

Carlo is quite possibly the strongest muthaf*cka i have ever had the pleasure to climb with. He has an incredible ability to seemingly levitate between big dynamic moves with the precision of a surgeon. I think he may also be the only person that has a chance at beating the impossible Gorilla Grip game that was at fair grounds across the UK in the early 90's.

In his first couple of weeks in here, Carlo has establish a V12 FA and repeated many of the hardest problems including the V11 highball, The Shield. He is now on the hunt to find a boulder where he can establish the next level in yosemite bouldering.

Mary Mecklenburg on incredible "Tendons Give"

Carlo is not the only one in the valley sending hard problems. A new wave of strong young climbers has hit the valley and made this a hot spot for new development. Keep an eye on this place over the coming boulder season. I'm sure we'll see some great updates!