OutdoorFest: Live in the city, Love the Outdoors

Photo courtesy of OutdoorFest.

Since moving to New York in 2012, I've been continually surprised by the number outdoor enthusiasts and weekend warriors that call the city home.

Whether its driving eight hours for a couple of cherished days at Kentucky's Red River Gorge or waking up at 3am on a monday morning, to endure the freezing temperatures of the Rockaways "Dawn Patrol" surf scene.. 

These rebels of societal norms represent a growing sub culture of city dwellers that go to great lengths in order to get a fix of there chosen liberation. Often skipping that night out at the bar with friends in order to be on performance for the following days adventures.

Last year, while exploring New Yorks hectic networking scene, I met Sarah Knapp. Working for a local outdoor company, she emanated joyful enthusiasm and creative flair poured from behind her thin black lenses. 

It was clear from the start we shared big ideas and dreams. Both hungry for adventure and an un-shakable passion for the outdoors, we would geek out for hours in coffee shops about how we could make a difference to the community that we love.

A year on from our coffee house rendezvous's, and after consuming enough caffeine to power the entire state of Rhode Island, Sarah has launched her own outdoor festival named "OutdoorFest".

The festivals goal is simple, to get New Yorkers off the sofa, and active in the outdoors. Unlike traditional festivals, OutdoorFest does not take place in one central location. Instead, Companies and contributors from across the city participate by holding events in separate locations, spreading the outreach and allowing more people to take part. 

It's also entirely free.

Without a barrier to entry, the festival naturally scoops up many low income families who previously wouldn't have had the chance or even known that they could kayak the Hudson or trail run the Palisades Park.The community response to these events has is nothing short of astonishing. With last years events (albeit under a different name) engaging more than 6000 people, this year aims to be bigger and better!

This incredible event is currently raising money to help keep the it free. You can donate AND get some sweet perks in return by checking out the Indiegogo campaign below.

I will be hosting 2 events for the festival:

Urban Mountains
June 5th, 7pm @ REI Soho
I'll be talking about how being a passionate business developer lead me to write the guide to NYC and the struggles along the way as well as sharing the story of Climbers Against Cancer and how our incredible and unique community can make a difference.

Central Park Bouldering Tour
June 7th, 9am to 2pm @ Rat Rock (Umpire Rock)
Alongside The Cliffs and in support of Climbers Against Cancer and The Access Fund. I will be giving tours of the rocks in Central Park, sharing beta where wanted and doing some pebble wrestling with you good people.

I look forward to seeing you there!

Link:
http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/outdoorfest-live-in-the-city-love-the-outdoors/x/6594591

Rock Climbing in New York: NYC Bouldering Guide

"New York City is best known for it yellow cabs, retail stores, and phenomenal skyline. It's a city full of coffee culture, alternative fashion and rock climbing... 

This lesser known fact may come as a surprise to most who have yet to explore the hidden landscapes beneath the cities veil of steel and concrete. These unique boulders are steeped in history and offer a climbing experience like nowhere else In the world!" - Gareth Leah

Over the past year I have searched for, climbed, photographed, documented, and climbed again hundreds of boulders in NYC in a quest to create a bouldering guide for arguably the most famous city on the planet. It's taken blood, sweat, flappers and tears to bring about what i believe is one of the most incredible looking guidebooks ever created. It's been an incredible journey, making some incredible friends along the way and nesting into the city that i now call my home.


When i first began this project, I didn't truly appreciate the scope of what i was creating. It was a personal project that i took upon myself to fill time and get to know people. It had a different design, different images and different feel to what it has now become. Below you can see the Final cover (left) and the original (right).

It originally had around 80 pages and was based upon the style and design of the old subway map. The images i took myself while learning the how to use a camera and in all honesty, it was a little mediocre. 

Original designs (below)

This final version of the book comes almost a year after the original was drawn up but still has remenants of the original. The maps have been transplanted from the old version and spruced up with some water color and slight modifications. The line drawings have been adapted to overlay new images and the route colors changed to fit the publisher. 

New Version (below)

The book also gained some media attention from: The New York Times, The New York Daily News, Grimper Magazine, Climberism Magazine, Grimpe Magazine, Gripped magazine, Empire State of Climb and The Vertical amongst many others.


The book is now out and available here: Sharp End Books and at many outdoor retailers worldwide


I hope this book takes you to places you've never been before and gives you a new perspective on NYC.

New York Climbing Gyms

New York City is one of the largest cities on this egg shaped rock we call earth.

It is home to 8.2 million people, 20,000 street venders, 12,700 yellow taxi's, 48 white castles and 5 climbing gyms in or nearby!

Click here to view the interactive map

Whether you're a first timer or a veteran climber, there's a gym in New York (or close by) to suite your needs. Below is a map of all the current and upcoming climbing walls in and around the city so that no matter where you're staying, you can get your climbing fix!

The gyms covered here are: 
Brooklyn Boulders, Chelsea Piers, The Cliffs, MPHC, Reebok and The Rock Club.

1. Brooklyn Boulders
Located within walking distance of the Union St metro station and highly accommodating for cyclists with its large bike rack facility. Brooklyn Boulders is a great wall for locals and commuters alike. It is one of the largest climbing centres on the east coast with over 22,000 sq feet of climbing!

There is a real community atmosphere here and there are always plenty of people willing to help you solve problems you may be struggling with. The instructors here are qualified, experienced climbers and always happy to answer your questions whether its how to become a climber or how to push your limits.

Facilities:
Top ropes
Auto belays
Lead wall with arch and staligtite
Tons of bouldering
Multiple styles of campus board
Systems board
Slack lining

Overall:
The facility really speaks for itself. It offers lessons for everyone of all abilities and at a reasonable price. A standard day pass here will set you back $20 without gear hire which is the average cost here in New York. Instruction is more and needs to be booked. The only down side to here is that it can get pretty crowded during peak times which is generally any day after 4pm.

Info:
www.brooklynboulders.com
Tel: (347) 834-9066

2. Chelsea Piers
Out on the west side of Manhattan, Chelsea Piers is one of the most difficult walls to commute to and one of the more expensive one too. However, It has a very impressive 46' high by 100' wide main wall, the 14' high by 70' wide bouldering wall and the adjacent 16' high by 18' wide bouldering cave which combined offer over 11,000 square feet of sculpted, three-dimensional climbing surface that will challenge novice and expert climbers alike. In addition, a radically designed, overhanging competition roof provides experienced sport climbers with the ultimate challenge and stamina fest!

Facilities:

Huge lead wall with overhang
Bouldering wall
Bouldering cave

Overall:
The facilities are very impressive and if you're already a climber and are serious about improving then this is a place that you must visit! It is much more expensive here than other facilities around New York and is better suited to those who have plenty of extra cash and climbing experience. A day pass here will set you back $50!

Info:
www.chelseapiers.com
Tel:  (212) 336-6083



3. The Cliffs Long Island City 
Opening early Spring 2013, this is set to be one of the biggest climbing facilities in the entire US! It will be easily accessible by public transport, car and bike with its roadside parking and easy bicycle store. Combined with its huge 30,000 sq feet of climbing, multi-gym, fitness bathrooms (showers) and a retail store. This could be New York's one stop shop for climbers. 

Let's see what happens!

Facilities:
Massive top out bouldering
Crack climbing
60 ft lead wall with a 35 ft overhang
Cutting edge new wall designed by Walltopia
Fitness area including bathrooms and showers
Retail store

Overall:
It's currently still under construction but their will be a review as soon as i get a glimpse at the new place.

Info:
www.thecliffsclimbing.com
Tel: (914) 328-ROCK



4. Manhattan Plaza Health Club 
A community driven climbing wall in the heart of the city. It is the smallest climbing facility in the city but what it lacks in size it makes up for with goings on. There are always creative and fun events happening here from glow stick climbing to film festivals. This is a great place to take beginner lessons if you prefer not having a large number of people watching you as its never too crowded.

Facilities:
Overhanging lead wall
Short top ropes
Small bouldering wall
Campus board and fingerboard

Overall:
Small and friendly but could invest in some new climbing holds to make climbing a little more enjoyable. A standard day pass will set you back $20 which is the average rate in the city and overall its a nice place to climb!

Info:
www.mphc.com
Tel: (212) 563-7001



5. Reebok Sports Gym
Sports club is not the right word to describe this facility. It's more of a country club and it's members only! I never actually got to go here as there is no day pass. To visit you must go with another member and pay a $35 entrance fee to climb. There are no lessons here and a yearly pass is upwards of $2,200!

Facilities:
40 ft by 18 ft wall with 4 lines

Overall:
Not worth the effort unless you really have money to burn and even then you could spend the same money going to any of the other gyms and getting a better facility and experience.

Info:
www.sportsclubla.com
Tel: (212) 355-5100




6. The Rock Club

The Rock Club is the dubbed "New York area’s premier indoor climbing center". featuring a 40 foot high main wall with terrain ranging from easy to radically extreme. With around 80 climbing stations with over 200 individual routes.

Whatever your climbing interest, ability or age, you'll enjoy your time at The Rock Club. The walls were designed, engineered and built by RockWerx, the leader in indoor climbing walls and the staff are pros with a passion for climbing and commitment to customer service. Their enthusiasm will rub off on you!

Facilities:
Boulder wall, cave and VOLCANO
Multiple overhangs, slabs, dihedrals, arches and more angles than Mt. Rushmore
Full cardio training area
Beginner and group area
Function rooms
Childrens Nursery

Full retail store


Overall:
A truly incredible climbing gym with staff that care a lot about the sport. It has everything you could possibly need to become a climber and improve. A day pass is just $15 to boulder which is by far the best price of any gym! The only downside would be travelling from the city as it would take some time and be difficult without a car. If you can go, do it!

Info:
www.climbrockclub.com
Tel: (914) 633-ROCK



All this information and more can also be found in the upcoming climbing book NYC Bouldering Guide.

NYC: New York Climbing

The bouldering guide is storming along now and I decided that while I'm waiting for the graphics nerds to work there magic I'd get out with some friends to crush some problems!

We (Lorenzo and I) started at the WEST SIDE outcrops on 103rd and Central Park West. We climbed loads of problems upto V7 including a great layback line that was an absolute gem. we scoped out the highball lines that go all the way to 106th but decided as it had started raining we should retreat to the Hepatitis Cave with Ivan and Mike. Now I bet your your thinking why anyone would you want to hangout at a cave named Hepatitis?

Take a look!

This cave is home to a Central Park classic named YoYo Jimminy V11, first climbed by Brian Kim. Under the cave can admittedly be a little gross at times which is how it gets its name, but what it lacks in cleanliness it makes up in quality. The routes here can be climbed in any conditions and there is a ongoing project to the left of YoYo which is rumoured to be around the grade of V13!

While hiding away from the rain we worked this new problem for a LOOOONNNNGGGGG time, slowly unfolding its mystery and complexity. After probably 4 hours of work we had made much progress but didn't manage to send it. Feeling peckish, we decided to leave for the day but not before I wrote a note to the homeless man that lives under the rock explaining that I'd like him to be part of  of a climbing film about NYC Bouldering featuring some top climbers in the world. I left contact details and a pad and pen explaining that if he can't contact me by electronic means I'd be back in 2 days to pick up a note.

Will I get a reply? We'll have to wait and see!

This week on the NYC Bouldering Guide Facebook were doing a competition with the chance to win a awesome PUDGE Package featuring coffee, pucker, shirt and much more!  To enter simply LIKE our Facebook group and then send us a message containing 5 CORRECT answers to the photo questions.

I'll be posting sneak peeks of the book soon so everyone can get an idea of how it's going to look!

WATCH THIS SPACE:

NYC BOULDERING

NYC Bouldering Guide

New York City is probably one of the last places you would ever imagine going rock climbing, and rightly so. It's doesn't have any mountains, hills or cliffs and is best known for its vast expanses of streets and sky scrapers.

So you may have guessed from the title of this blog that although the city lacks any large rock faces, it is home to a variety of fantastic schist boulders and rocky outcrops. Hidden within the concrete jungle, amongst the the many parks and green spaces, lay one of New York's best kept secrets as far as climbing is concerned!

These massive boulders are home to some very strong climbers such as Ivan Greene and Brian Kim who have made V11 and V12 first ascents across the park. Climbing in the city also has a rich history dating back to the 1960's and possible earlier. It is thought that the great George Mallory may have climbed the rock at central park during his visit in the earl 1920's. 

However, everything you have just read is barely documented and could be fact or fiction. They are stories and snippets of information that i have gathered from the people I've met while living here in NY. I decided that because finding information on climbing in the city was so difficult to come by and in high demand, (go down to rat rock any day and ask if anyone knows of all the routes!) I would take the time to put everyone's knowledge into a book so that everyone can enjoy the climbing history that is written in the rock.

So with the help of some great people I have began to make what will be a complete guide to NYC Bouldering. It will be published by Sharp End Books and I will be donating a percentage of the books revenue to the Access Fund who help keep our climbing areas open. 

The book is still around a year away from completion and here is a sneak peak of what you can expect!