The Responsible Climbing Gym: Access, Experience and Social responsibilities

The term "community" is used a lot in the climbing world. Gyms talk about their community much like it's a tribe, something that they are proud of, that their patrons have loyalty and alliance to, which for the most part, this is true.

You can go to almost any crag in the US and find people toting their gym "Belay Certified" card on their harness. To many climbers, they consider these people the stereotypical "noobs", those who have yet to realise the unwritten social rule that wearing your gym card is a sign of inexperience, and often someone worth steering clear of (especially if you don't want to watch an accident unfold). To others it's a rubber-banded flag of affiliation, one that encourages social interaction and is worn with pride.

Whatever your perspective may be, stereotypes exist for a reason. Those of us who have saved our fair share of people from almost certain injury, or worse, due to their lack of instruction, know that the majority are completely unaware of the danger they're putting themselves AND their partners in. Confronting unsafe practice can be incredibly uncomfortable for both parties, as no-one wants to be a "busy body", and less so to be informed their climbing is reckless. The handful of times that this has been myself, cautiously sharing experience gained from working as a guide, I often look for a belay tag and question; where on earth did they learn to climb?

Admittedly, this is not a completely fair way to pass judgement. After all, everyone makes mistakes when learning and it's often sheer luck that they do not sustain an injury in the process. But in the same way that climbers attach their gym's logo to their harness, I attach their inexperience and behaviour in the outdoors to their gym.

Having moved to the US some years ago from the UK, I'm very aware of the differences in the climbing industry, behaviour and culture between the two countries. In the US, for example, there is no universal standard for instructing climbing skills and practices. The executive decision falls to the gym owner / operator to enforce what is safe practice. Having visited a large number of gyms across the US and witnessed all manner of belay techniques (some of which make me shiver at the thought of being on the sharp end), it's clear that education standards in the American climbing industry are not keeping up with the boom in climbing gyms, which is likely a contributor to the growing number of  climbing related injuries throughout the US both indoors and out.

This is obviously an over-simplified version of reality which has many factors to it that people can argue for and against. What I'm truly getting at is this: Where does the line begin and end for climbing gyms responsibility to educate its members in both safe practices and stewardship? 

To understand the scope of this question and to shed some light on where the future of climbing is heading, it helps to take a look back at the history of modern climbing and see where it came from. 

Rock climbing, for all intents and purpose, is a relatively new sport that has gone through a number of radical changes since it became a recognised sport at the end of the 19th century. Originally reserved for the bold and the brave, it has advanced from hip belays to auto locking devices, static hemp ropes tied around the waist to dynamic chemical coated ropes that attach to a harness and skills originally passed from leader to second over years of climbing are now often compressed into a two hour class at an indoor climbing gym.

With its obvious inherent dangers, advancements in the sport have for the most part been concentrated in the direction of improved safety and performance through technology due to the limitations of old equipment. But with modern equipment now often surpassing its required functionality, could it be that one of the biggest dangers our sport faces is not that our equipment is insufficient, but that we lose access to our outdoor spaces?

With new climbers now being educated through gyms instead of mentors on a rapid crash course involving some version of the "punch-brake-slide" belay technique, the soft skills such as ethics are often left out as an unnecessary "extra" rather than part of the fundamentals. This in turn is contributing to the growing problem of land access as more and more uneducated climbers continue to unknowingly abuse their privilege to climb in the outdoors. 

Though we are lucky to have incredible companies such as The Access Fund to help educate climbers in what is acceptable conduct in the outdoors, their battle is made increasingly difficult as many gyms are not pro-active in passing on this information. Gyms may argue that they display posters provided by The Access Fund on how to be responsible climber. However, is this effort great enough when others witness a gyms members stuffing trash into cracks, blasting music at the crag or covering a rock in enough tick marks that it resembles a MOMA art installation?

I believe that, as Bob Dylan so eloquently put it, “The times are a changin” and that climbing gyms should do more to preserve the future of our sport through actively educating members in outdoor conduct. This doesn’t need to be anything drastic. It could be done in all manner of simple ways such as: Adding an additional section to their classes that focuses on the subject,  Handing out postcards at the gym, Having an outdoor awareness month and Gym presentations on the matter. If a gym did want to be radical in its approach they could go as far as to work in a membership to The Access Fund with every membership to the gym, thus enabling them to have a direct outreach to these climbers as they join our community. I don’t claim to know the perfect solution to solve this problem, but know that taking some action is better than not. 

I’ve been told by a handful of gym owners that “no one becomes a climber to make money, it’s for the love”. If they truly believe this, then we can hope that they can understand the crucial role they play in nurturing our industry, ensuring future generations can enjoy our climbing areas, the same way we are able to now.

Gear Junkie: DIY Huarache Running Sandal

If your feet could talk, they'd ask for these!

I think that as climbers, we can agree that we're not best known for the aesthetics of our feet. Years of cramming our street size 10 into a climbing shoe 2 sizes too small leaves our toes in far from ideal shape, but a chiropodist dream. So this is a liberation, a way to thank our feet for all the abuse we put them through, the Huarache Running Sandal.

Based on designs from the Tarahumara people who inhabit a small corner of Northwestern Mexico, the crag flop is a simple, practical and comfortable shoe that weighs very little and is easy to slip on between climbs.

The Tarahumara call themselves the Rarámuri, meaning "runners on foot" or "those who run fast" in their native tongue. Made famous by the book "Born to run", they are best known for running distances of up to 200 miles in one session.

In this article, we'll take it step by step in how to create your very own Huarache running sandals, but with a modern flair!

Tools

Hammer
Scissors
Box cutter
4mm Diameter Hole punch 
Lighter

Materials

You will need a sole material, we're using Vibram Cherry which I picked up from Rock and Resole but you can other materials. I've heard of people recycling mocasins and using race car tires as an alternative.

12ft of climbing accessory cord or nylon paracord, 6ft for each flop. Again, this could be any string material but you'll want it to be soft as to not chafe the toes. 

Step 1: Tracing your foot.

Placing the rubber on a flat surface, trace around your foot using a pencil / pen. Be sure to keep the pencil vertical when drawing to get an accurate size of your foot. 

Step 2: Creating the Outline

Now that we have an accurate trace of the foot, using a pen / pencil, we're going to smooth off the edges by following the natural curve of your foot allowing some movement and flexibility for the foot once we cut out the rubber sole.

Step 3: Cutting out your sole

There are a number of ways to remove your sole from the sheet. A box cutter or a pair of strong scissors seem to do the best job. Scissors tend to be a little easier to use and don't pose the same worry of cutting off your fingers. 

Step 4: Punching holes

As with cutting out the soles, there are a number of ways to punch holes in the material. The thing to remember when making holes is that if you make them circular and exact, they're less likely to rip through. Avoiding using a knife if possible as the holes it creates is more likely to tear. 

To punch the holes, first mark between the big toe. Next, mark a line above the ankle bone either side of the foot about 1 centimetre long. At the end of the line, place another mark for for a hole. (see below) Using the hole punch and hammer, place holes in the marked locations.

I decided that with these shoe I would put some rivets in as a further precaution to stop the rubber tearing but it's not necesary.

Step 5: Lacing your flops

This part may seem complicated, but once you've tied the laces a couple of times, its super easy.

There is no easy way to describe how to tie them, so I found this video online that will make it easier to see and understand the patterns.

Have Fun!

Gear Junkie: Mad Rock Redline Climbing Shoe

 

Sculptured by the hands East Coast legend Obe Carrion, the new Redline climbing shoe from Mad Rock is truly a game changer!

Where to begin?

This shoe is unlike anything that has been on the market previously due to a number of features including the very unique and very useful, moulded compression tongue which makes this fit like a slipper and a tie in in one.

The shoe also utilises Mad Rocks Tek Flex upper which is designed to let the foot "breath". I've never yet used a shoe that truly breaths, but this is about as close as it gets currently in the climbing footwear world. The sole is fitted with R2 rubber which combined with the Arch Flex technology, keeps the shoes shape even when the foot is loaded in unlike many other shoes which tend flatten out.

THE WORD

Mad Rock have been known previously for creating budget products which people would often shy away from thinking the lower cost had some correlation with quality. The new Redline sets to change that precedent and show that they not only make high quality, but that they can also role with the larger climbing companies when it comes to pushing the envelope of climbing innovation and technology.

These admittedly might not be the best choice when hitting the slabs as the same technology that allows them to keep their perfect shape for overhangs is the same that also makes them less than ideal for smearing. A couple of people I showed the shoes expressed worry that the rubber may be to stiff. However, after testing these on a number of rock types and different conditions from the Red River Gorge to Boulder Canyon and even the Gunks, I find the slightly stiffer rubber actually makes them perform better on small and delicate holds.

Cost: $$$$
At $160, these are priced similar to that of it's competing shoes such as the La Sportiva Solutions or the Scarpa Instinct. They are significantly more than other shoes in the Mad Rock range but you're also getting a lot of new technology for your money.

Performance: 5/5

For me, the shoe couldn't be much better. It fits my foot like a glove with zero dead space throughout and provides me with great performance without crippling my toes.

Value: 5/5
The quality of the shoe is unquestionably high but how long they last only time will tell. I've been using mine every day for a couple of months and they still show very little signs of wear. 

Gear Junkie: Hanchor PIPE-T1 backpack

If you're like me, you'll have a number of backpacks floating around your home, all with different purposes. One for your rope, one for the work commute, one for multi-pitch, another for the gym. The list is long and hunting for the right bag when its time to shine arrives can often leave you running late.

Being a bit of a minimalist, I'm always looking out for multi-use objects and items that can make life simpler. Take the spork for example. Why have a draw full of rattling cutlery that takes up space when you can have a spoon, knife and fork in one? 

Admittedly, I wouldn't be singing the same tune if I was blessed with ample space to live, but 3 years in a NY apartment the size of a dive bar toilet and then up-sizing to a Ford Van, I'm ruthless when it comes to owning anything that takes up space.

I  recently picked up the new Hanchor PIPE T-1 backpack and have been having fun taking it on a variety of adventures..

The bag itself is made of bomber X-Pac VX21, a laminated fabric which has incredible water proofness and shear strength. The bag itself is not rated as waterproof as the seams are not sealed, but it held up incredibly with the torrential NY rains that seems to come sporadically. Its zips are laminated to further aid in keeping water out and it has a number of zipper pockets throughout to make organising your life into a bag that much easier.

Over past month or two, I've used this bag everyday for carting about my laptop about (Mac book pro 13") and taken it on a number of trips to see how it performed.

 I first took it hiking up 14ers in Colorado in which it performed well. I easily fit everything I needed for the day, including one very tired dog (awww) and didn't chaff or rub. I also managed to fit a bladder in the bag with a bit of jimmy rigging with a NiteIze "S" clip. Not ideal, but it worked.

Next, I took it to a climbing competition in Arkansas titled "Twenty Four Hours of Horseshoe Hell". The competition involves climbing continuously for 24 hours to accumulate points and climb as many routes as you can. It's an incredible event that will leave you feeling like you've been through the ringer the day after.

For this, I loaded it with snacks, a guidebook, water proof clothing and multiple water bottles that conveniently fit snugly in the front pockets. Over the course of the competition, It got coffee'd , dragged across rocks and  thrown through brambles. Amazingly, after the comp the bag was still in great shape!

Most recently, I attempted a long multi-pitch adventure which was to repeat one of the worlds longest routes in the Gunks, NY. We unfortunately got rained off the route after just 2 days but the bag came along for the ride and was comfortable enough but I don't think this is one of its strong applications.

THE WORD

The bag is incredibly tough and hard wearing by any standard. It's another testament of Hanchors' commitment to make quality products that are built to last. Primarily designed as a nifty day pack, it's proven itself to be tough as the city I live in (NY) and suitable for many different uses. 

As for pricing, the PIPE-T1 comes in at around $174 which seems a lot at first glance but competitively priced when compared to its competitors such as the Arc'teryx Blade 30 or the Osprey Packs Spin 22.

Cost: $$$$
On the high end of the price range

Comfort: 4/5
Stays comfortable after extended period of time and when fully loaded

Features: 5/5
The bag is loaded with small details that help organise your hectic life into a bag

Functionality: 5/5
This may not be the first bag you reach for when you go on a multi pitch fiasco, but it fits most other days. Whether your simply commuting to work, getting groceries or wondering around town, this pack is pretty neat!

Quit your job and go climbing

While on my recent travels to Utah in order to attend the annual Summer Outdoor Retailer event, I was lucky enough to get a viewing of the latest Reel Rock Film Tour - Valley Uprising from Big Up Productions and Sender Films.

Such an event is something to behold. Since it's beginning in 2006, Reel Rock Film Tour has been screened in hundred of locations and inspired millions of people. This time around was no exception!

As we followed the crowds towards the plaza it became clear this was far from a simple film viewing. This was a gathering of the climbing industries most influential and ambitious characters. Those who had dedicated their lives to a passion that gave them a sense of achievement and belonging. Pushing the physical and mental boundaries of our sport!

Wondering around the small mezzanine out front of the Megaplex 12 Cinema, I brushed elbows with many of americas climbing heroes. Lynn Hill, Dean Potter, Hans Florine and Ceder Wright were just a handful of those enjoying the h'orderves and local brews put on by the Reel Rock crew.

The effect of bringing together this band of people who emanate such enthusiasm and camaraderie was mind blowing. It was incredible to see how such a diverse and geographically separated group of individuals that were so tightly knit through their passion of rock climbing.

Stepping into the theatre, you could sense the audiences anticipation for the film which had been some 7 years in the making. Unlike the rock tours previous years, they showed just one film, "The Valley Uprising - Yosemite's Rock Climbing Revolution." This was a tribute to Yosemite Valley, to its history, its people and its unique culture that has been in the climbing spotlight since the 1950's. 

Tracing back the valley's climbing lineage, you're taken on an journey into the depths of the climbers mindset beginning with the golden age of Yosemite climbing right up to the present day. Many of the valleys unsung heroes are featured in this video that is guaranteed to leave you feeling more than a little amped for your next adventure. I for one was ready to quit the 9 to 5 and follow the romantic notion of a vagabond lifestyle!

The profound effect of the tour re-lit a fire in my belly that's been buried inside for some time, fearful of failure and the unknown. Although the times have changed considerably since the dirt bag lifestyle of the 70's, this journey into history shows that each generation finds their own adventure if only they're brave enough to take the leap!

The tour begins in a couple of weeks and I would make sure you don't miss this! You can check out locations and dates by visiting the Reel Rock Tour website.

Assualt on El Capitan: Wings Of Steel

In 1982, two young guns, Mark Smith and Richard Jensen visited California's Yosemite Valley with the dream of establishing a first ascent on the global climbing stage of El Capitan.

After a record breaking thirty-nine days on the wall, they succeeded in pioneering a new route up the southwest face, naming it Wings Of Steel. The route journeyed over the infamous Great Slab, a glassy 1,000ft of featureless rock considered unclimbable by many.

The battle to climb the seemingly unconquerable route was fought on many fronts. The climbing aside, Mark and Richard were the subject of verbal harassment, threats of violence and sabotage to the climbing safety equipment from the territorial locals who were less than welcoming. 

The route went unrepeated for almost 30 years while the bitter controversy rumbled on. Disputes about the route would appear in online forums where climbers would speculate the ethics of the ascent. A handful second ascents was attempted, but failed before summiting, unable to overcome the difficulties of the route on its lower pitches. Yet the critics would continue to slander Mark and Richards efforts, denouncing it to be little more than a convoluted "bolt ladder".

Some three decades later, Yosemite veteran Ammon McNeely took up the challenge to repeat the route. Drawn to the climb by its mystery, he would lay to rest the rancorous stories that litter the internet. For Mark and Richard, Ammon's ascent would be the vindication they had desired for all these years.

Along with climbing partner Kait Barber and videographer Jeff Vargen, Assault on El Capitan tells a candid history of the routes establishment and the difficulties each team faced on their journey to the top. Featuring interviews from the key players in the story including climbing legends Ron Kauk and Steve Grossman, the film is more narrative than action thriller!

While the film does a great job at shedding light on the Wings of Steel debacle, it's clear that this film is made for the climbing community that has significant interest in the happenings of the valley. Non-climbers can also enjoy the film, being wowed by much of the portaledge footage, asking the regular question of "Do they sleep up there?" and finding humour in the ridiculousness of the ego's squabbling over "a piece of rock". 

It's truly embarrassing to be part of a community that would carry out many of the atrocious deeds they did to a fellow climber when viewed through the lens of a human and non climber. With this film, Jeff Vargen has achieved a compelling and educational insight into the climbing world that I hope will finally lay to rest the personal grudges between everyone involved and begin the healing process for the future of the sport. 

Assault on El Capitan

Produced by Accidental Productions, written and directed by Jeff Vargen

USA 2013, 68 minutes

Reviewed by Gaz Leah