Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Climbing Injuries and rehabilitation

I decided to write this article because i've been having some pain in my elbows recently which seems to becoming worse, so much so that i've decided to do some research into what it could be and how it should be addressed.

The biggest problem presented in doing this is that there seems to be a lot of controversey over what is the right rehabilitation method for elbow injuries and what are the major causes. In my case its Tennis Elbow (Lateral epicondylalgia or Lateral epicondylitis) which becomes aware through pain or soreness on the outside of the elbow.

If you trawl the internet you can find a plethora of articles each with its argument for the causes of Tennis Elbow. Many articles state that it's an injury caused by "overuse, occurring in the lateral side of the elbow region."

However, reading medical articles and blogs from top climbers show "An intriguing new hypothesis is emerging that tendonosis might be down to underuse, rather than an overuse injury" which rings more true with myself being that I have gone from training 4 hours a day to not at all for the past 2 months and in have rarely been climbing at all.

Whether it is caused by overuse or underuse the general consensus is that regular and eccentric wrist curls are a good way to rehabilitate the injury. I have found a video which I thought was a good demonstration on how to perform these rehab work outs. Please remember that if you have an injury the best person to contact for advice is a physician.