The Long Wall Project: The Longest Route, Never repeated

The Great Wall of china is a 5.9 R, traverse of the the Gunks. It was first climbed the year I was born back in 1987 and is still awaiting a second ascent. At 9000ft long, it is arguably the longest established rock route in the world.

Alongside my good friend Leigh Campbell, we aim is to raise $1 for every foot of climbing we complete for Climbers Against Cancer and will stay on the wall for as long as is needed to complete the route. This means we will likely need to portaledge at least 1 night, possibly two at the lofty and comical height of around 15ft off the ground, battlng heat and humidity, ticks and chiggers, blood, sweat and tears!

With help from Cameron Maier of Bearcam Media, we will create a video for this project to be submitted to major film festivals such as BAMFF, Reel rock film tour and Kendal Mountain Film Festival, creating awareness of CAC and the need to help causes bigger than ourselves.

By creating a positive media piece and leading by example, we believe we can motivate and empower the outdoor community to apply their talents and skills to social and environmental issues, benefitting everyone, whether your climbing rock faces or the corporate ladder.

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Team

Gareth “Gaz” Leah
Worldly adventurer, passionate writer, business developer and climber. Born and bred in the UK, Gaz has climbed all over the world including Mexico, France, Spain, Oman, Dubai and all over the US including Yosemite. Famous for having the worst beta on plastic and often referred to as the chubby chaser of climbing, he seeks out new adventures in undeveloped destinations.



Leigh Campbell
Former US Army photographer, graphic designer, studio photographer and climber. A Gunks climber and Catskill ice climber, Leigh is happiest when clinging to the side of a cliff in New York State. He is always up for a good adventure, whether raiding foreign fighters or an epic long traverse of one of the most famous cliff lines in the world. Often referred to as an urban redneck, his passion lies in climbing the blue lines of winter and respecting the art of traditional rock climbing.




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Your donations and support means so much to us as we get geared up ready to do battle with The Long Wall. Sharing this project with your friends helps us spread the word and continue to raise money for this incredible cause, making the world that little bit better.

Lets face it, if we cure cancer, the world would be even more kick ass!

You can help our campaign by donating $$$, sharing with friends and supporting our on Fundly campaign on Facebook. 

Cheers,

Gaz Leah & Leigh Campbell

The Choss Bruvas

www.ClimberAgainstCancer.org

Thirsty for a better world

For as long as I can remember, I've been drawn to the idea of philanthropy.

I used to think that it was a word associated with the super rich. Those that had abundant amounts of money to spare and didn't know quite how to spend it. I'm sure this interest in sharing wealth was some how spurred on by my own up bringing in a low income family. Growing up as a family of 5, we didn't have much in the way of material possessions or money, and my parents taught us that if we wanted something, we would have to get it ourselves. Despite this, I never felt like I was really missing out. My parents loved me and I was inspired by their tenacity to try and make our way of life better through all of the struggles. We weren't the only family this way, many of my friends families were the same and because of this, we bonded and supported each other.

Reflecting on my childhood, I can remember specific days and moments that taught me some of my greatest lessons. Like the day when my Donnay school shoes fell apart and we couldn't afford a new pair, so I simply glued the sole back on. Or the time when all the kids in school went away skiing for the summer but we were too poor to afford it. I didn't even ask my parents if I could go for fear of making them feel inadequate, I knew they worked so hard for what we did have. 

One of my fondest memories is of a caravan holiday I went on with my friends family to Yorkshire shortly after recovering from Stephen Johnsons Syndrome. I was socially embarrassed of my patchy appearance, lacked confidence and could not fund the holiday myself. Without asking, my friends and family helped me out. Knowing i'd not been on a traditional holiday, well, ever. They understood that at the moment in my life, I really needed some community support.

I can't help but think how unbelievably lucky I was to have these experience and this up bringing. Having nothing taught me the true meaning of value, respect, hard work and humility. It also taught me that all you really need are the basics: 

Food. Water. Community.

Now in my late 20's, I've not become one of the super rich and I still don't feel like i'm missing out. I feel that now more than ever, I understand the need to give back and the importance of helping out others less fortunate, just as my friends and community had done when I was in a lull. 

This last year, I've been focusing on paying back into social and economic causes that I admire with what I have to offer, which is simply my time. One of those causes is Second Mile Water. A small non for profit out of boulder, their aim is to raise money and end water poverty, empowering people to live a better story. 

This summer, alongside incredible companies such as Patagonia and Prana, they are running an initiative titled the Colorado 54 that brings people together from across the US to collaboratively climb all of Colorado's 14,000ft (4000m) peaks. Together with my incredible friends, we are going to summit Quandary Peak as Team Wall-E and are looking for other to join us!

If you too enjoy busting a lung at altitude, basking in the sunlit mountain tundra, rejoice in helping others and can make it to the sunshine state. Check it out!

You can learn more about the Colorado 54, follow our progress and join our campaign below by clicking the link. 

Colorado 54

#Patagonia #Prana #NewtonRunning #BrownWaterCoffee #MtnDogMedia

Climbers United

Cancer. It’s a word that all us fear and yet we hear it so often that its potency is becoming diluted. In 2012, 8.2 million people died of cancer (1), contributing to over 14% of all deaths worldwide and the number is growing. It is thought that everyone will be affected by cancer at some point in their lifetime and although treatments are becoming more successful, there is still a lot of work to do before a cure is found.

One Friday in 2011, John Ellison, a happy and humble man living in the UK’s Peak District, went to the doctor for a check up after he experienced some usual pain in his right leg. Initially being turned away due packed office hours, John insisted and the secretary, seeing concern in Johns expression, squeezed him in an appointment. The doctor ran some routine blood test and told John he would be in touch. On the Monday, just few days later, the doctor called. “John, We have the test results back and i’d like you to come back in right away for further tests”. After a biopsy of the prostate, the results were back. John had Prostate Cancer, it was very aggressive and had spread to other parts of his body. In total, John had between 25 and 30 tumas on the bones and the cancer was deemed un-curable.

After being diagnosed, John says he had two ways of viewing this, “I can be living with cancer or be dieing with cancer. I choose to live”.  Having been a climber most of his life and the climbing community being his extended family, he set about channeling his new motivation for life into something that could help others. That motivation became Climbers Against Cancer. An organization that is set to unite the community for a greater cause than ourselves and attempt to make a real difference in the battle to find a cure for cancer. Unlike other “non-profits”, CAC donates 100% of the money raised to cancer research organizations around the world. They have currently contributed large donations to research in Australia, Canada, France, the UK and most recently, the USA.

In Summer 2013, top female climbers Shauna Coxley, Alex Puchio, Alex Johnson, Juliane Wurm, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Angie Payne, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Leah Crane, Katie Peters, Anna Stohr, Melissa Le Neve and Meagan Martin, banded together to create an official CAC calendar. Structured around a run down 1950‘s caravan, photographer Caroline Treadway captured the incredible moments as the girls decked out in post war clothing for the shoot which would be sold to raise money.

In Europe, CAC is well established. Supported by many of the top climbers such as Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxley and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk. It’s awareness is spreading and goals are being fulfilled, having currently raised over US$350,000 (EUR 250,000) since its forming and it continues to grow strong. It’s been named the official charity of the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) and is supported by the UIAA, Mammut, Lowe Alpine, Marmot, The North Face and Entreprises. 

In the United States and Canada, it’s gaining awareness with the help of athletes Chris Sharma, Alex Pucchio, Sean Mccoll and child prodigy Mirko Caballero to name but a few. With this incredible support, CAC continues to be a positive contributor to the global climbing community.

Seeing this change in the industry is nothing short of inspiring. With the climbing industry rapidly growing, there is comfort in the knowledge that our culture and community is one which is conscientious to both its environmental and social impact. 

John himself draws inspiration from our community and through all of the highs and lows of dealing with cancer, one thing has stayed consistent. John is always smiling. When asked why, John’s reply was simple “I smile because i’m always happy and see the bright side in everything”.

I hope that reading this article inspires you to think about how you can make a difference to your community and that maybe you too can see the good in everything, just as John has come to do. 

You can find out more about John, Climbers Against Cancer and their incredible efforts at on their website:  

www.ClimbersAgainstCancer.org.

 Reference: http://www.who.int

OutdoorFest: Live in the city, Love the Outdoors

Photo courtesy of OutdoorFest.

Since moving to New York in 2012, I've been continually surprised by the number outdoor enthusiasts and weekend warriors that call the city home.

Whether its driving eight hours for a couple of cherished days at Kentucky's Red River Gorge or waking up at 3am on a monday morning, to endure the freezing temperatures of the Rockaways "Dawn Patrol" surf scene.. 

These rebels of societal norms represent a growing sub culture of city dwellers that go to great lengths in order to get a fix of there chosen liberation. Often skipping that night out at the bar with friends in order to be on performance for the following days adventures.

Last year, while exploring New Yorks hectic networking scene, I met Sarah Knapp. Working for a local outdoor company, she emanated joyful enthusiasm and creative flair poured from behind her thin black lenses. 

It was clear from the start we shared big ideas and dreams. Both hungry for adventure and an un-shakable passion for the outdoors, we would geek out for hours in coffee shops about how we could make a difference to the community that we love.

A year on from our coffee house rendezvous's, and after consuming enough caffeine to power the entire state of Rhode Island, Sarah has launched her own outdoor festival named "OutdoorFest".

The festivals goal is simple, to get New Yorkers off the sofa, and active in the outdoors. Unlike traditional festivals, OutdoorFest does not take place in one central location. Instead, Companies and contributors from across the city participate by holding events in separate locations, spreading the outreach and allowing more people to take part. 

It's also entirely free.

Without a barrier to entry, the festival naturally scoops up many low income families who previously wouldn't have had the chance or even known that they could kayak the Hudson or trail run the Palisades Park.The community response to these events has is nothing short of astonishing. With last years events (albeit under a different name) engaging more than 6000 people, this year aims to be bigger and better!

This incredible event is currently raising money to help keep the it free. You can donate AND get some sweet perks in return by checking out the Indiegogo campaign below.

I will be hosting 2 events for the festival:

Urban Mountains
June 5th, 7pm @ REI Soho
I'll be talking about how being a passionate business developer lead me to write the guide to NYC and the struggles along the way as well as sharing the story of Climbers Against Cancer and how our incredible and unique community can make a difference.

Central Park Bouldering Tour
June 7th, 9am to 2pm @ Rat Rock (Umpire Rock)
Alongside The Cliffs and in support of Climbers Against Cancer and The Access Fund. I will be giving tours of the rocks in Central Park, sharing beta where wanted and doing some pebble wrestling with you good people.

I look forward to seeing you there!

Link:
http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/outdoorfest-live-in-the-city-love-the-outdoors/x/6594591

Birdsboro: The secret sport climbing of the east coast!

What's the best kept secret in East Coast sport climbing?

Home to over 120+ sport climbs with grades ranging from 5.4 to 5.14, Birdsboro is a little known sport crag that is neatly tucked away in a quiet corner of Pennsylvania.

Gaz Leah on Hinterland 5.12d

Development of the crag began back in 1993 when a handful of locals discovered the quarry, which at the time was buried under a blanket of poison ivy! The locals instantly recognised the potential for climbing on the many large faces of diabase rock, and quickly set about bolting their first line, "Zorro" 5.12a. Located on the "Wet Side", Zorro required very little cleaning, and an existing path leads straight to the base. 

This was the birthplace of Birdsboro climbing!

Birdsboro is unlike any crag you may have been to before. When you first arrive at the parking lot where the old road ends abruptly, you are greeted by a gently flowing river that is often packed with local fly fishermen (and women!). An old house sits on the far side of the river, which is now only accessible by taking the cable traverse, since the road washed away in the early 70's. And this is where the experience truly begins.

The second cable traverse

Crossing the wire cable, you continue your journey down a short section of the old route 82 which resembles little of its former self. Much of the road has been reclaimed by the earth leaving behind a narrow section of asphalt with yellow markings down the center. Passing over the old surviving bridge and alongside the working quarry, you reach the final cable traverse that leads the bottom of a short hill and the start of the climbing!

Upon reaching the top of the hill you find what is aptly titled; "The Bunker". It’s an old building once used by the quarry for storing dynamite that has now been re-purposed as a toilet for many visitors to the area. To the right is the Birdsboro notice board that is regularly stocked with the latest topo and news on the area. Beside it sits the bolt fund donation box and a choice of two paths that lead to the upper and lower tiers. Following the narrow path, the journey continues along the upper tier where the quarry opens up revealing its true beauty! 

The Main Wall

On one side, you catch a glimpse of the spectacular reservoir wall through the thin veil of trees and on the other side a large looming rock wall shoots upwards. This is the main wall, an area of the quarry that is popular with groups due to its variety of grades and varying angles. Here we met up with local climber, route equipper, and all around local legend Ted Coffelt to get the grand tour and learn more about the quarry.

As we walked along the upper tier, Ted points out each line we pass and tells us the story of its name and how it came to be. He explained to us how over the last twenty years, the quarry has undergone an incredible transformation; from a once overgrown ivy hole into its current state as staple for local outdoor enthusiasts. The area is now used for an extensive array of activities such as fly fishing, mountain biking, hiking, shooting, trail-running, and of course sport climbing. 

Ted pointing out the crag classics

We stop beneath the “Big Wall” and Ted points out one of his favourite lines, “Hinterland”. It’s a beautiful route that takes a direct line up the tallest part of the crag and is graded 5.10 to the first anchor and 5.12d to the second. At ninety feet long, it is a true test of endurance with the crux being at the very last move.

Ted highly recommends we try the route and we’re only too happy to oblige. Looking up at the wall, I couldn’t help but feel slightly intimidated by the sheer size of the wall. Slipping on my climbing shoes, I study the wall trying to figure out the moves and wondering if I have enough juice to climb such a long continuous overhang. I tied in and with a nod from my friend, I begin climbing. 

Bill Piehl on HinterLand,  

Moving carefully up the rock, I soon came to the first anchor and feeling pretty good, I decided to continue on to the top. The first few moves were manageable, but I soon found my forearms burning as the wall grew steeper and the holds became unmercifully smaller. I knew this attempt was soon over. Falling from the last clip, I lowered to the ground. Normally, I would find this disheartening and see it as a failure, but I didn’t feel disappointed. Instead, I was totally psyched at how amazing the route was and couldn't wait to try it again! I took a break and then got back on the sharp end, this time sticking all the moves and clipping the top anchor. 

It was apparent why Ted likes this route so much. It utilizes every move I've ever learnt in climbing from heal hooks to rock overs and even a dyno at the end. It truly was a full value route that just kept revealing new challenges. Ted was proud to see others having such a good time on the routes he and the locals had spent so many years bolting and maintaining.

Since visiting Birdsboro and meeting Ted, I've been truly inspired by the climbing there and believes that this is a place everyone should visit at least once. Whether you’re looking for a casual day out hiking or an adrenaline fueled day climbing, Birdsboro should be at the top of your places to visit in the area. 

Birdsboro Bolt Fund,

I hope this article piques your interest and encourages you to take the trip over to this great climbing spot. Please be respectful to the many people that use the area and pay thanks to those that have given their time and money to make this all possible. Above all though, have a great time!

INFO: 

The best place to find the latest information on Birdsboro Quarry is to use the website which is updated on a regular basis by the locals. Here you can find everything from the latest routes to the weather and more:

www.BirdsboroClimbing.com

Photography by Francois Lebeau