Climbers United

Cancer. It’s a word that all us fear and yet we hear it so often that its potency is becoming diluted. In 2012, 8.2 million people died of cancer (1), contributing to over 14% of all deaths worldwide and the number is growing. It is thought that everyone will be affected by cancer at some point in their lifetime and although treatments are becoming more successful, there is still a lot of work to do before a cure is found.

One Friday in 2011, John Ellison, a happy and humble man living in the UK’s Peak District, went to the doctor for a check up after he experienced some usual pain in his right leg. Initially being turned away due packed office hours, John insisted and the secretary, seeing concern in Johns expression, squeezed him in an appointment. The doctor ran some routine blood test and told John he would be in touch. On the Monday, just few days later, the doctor called. “John, We have the test results back and i’d like you to come back in right away for further tests”. After a biopsy of the prostate, the results were back. John had Prostate Cancer, it was very aggressive and had spread to other parts of his body. In total, John had between 25 and 30 tumas on the bones and the cancer was deemed un-curable.

After being diagnosed, John says he had two ways of viewing this, “I can be living with cancer or be dieing with cancer. I choose to live”.  Having been a climber most of his life and the climbing community being his extended family, he set about channeling his new motivation for life into something that could help others. That motivation became Climbers Against Cancer. An organization that is set to unite the community for a greater cause than ourselves and attempt to make a real difference in the battle to find a cure for cancer. Unlike other “non-profits”, CAC donates 100% of the money raised to cancer research organizations around the world. They have currently contributed large donations to research in Australia, Canada, France, the UK and most recently, the USA.

In Summer 2013, top female climbers Shauna Coxley, Alex Puchio, Alex Johnson, Juliane Wurm, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Angie Payne, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Leah Crane, Katie Peters, Anna Stohr, Melissa Le Neve and Meagan Martin, banded together to create an official CAC calendar. Structured around a run down 1950‘s caravan, photographer Caroline Treadway captured the incredible moments as the girls decked out in post war clothing for the shoot which would be sold to raise money.

In Europe, CAC is well established. Supported by many of the top climbers such as Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxley and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk. It’s awareness is spreading and goals are being fulfilled, having currently raised over US$350,000 (EUR 250,000) since its forming and it continues to grow strong. It’s been named the official charity of the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) and is supported by the UIAA, Mammut, Lowe Alpine, Marmot, The North Face and Entreprises. 

In the United States and Canada, it’s gaining awareness with the help of athletes Chris Sharma, Alex Pucchio, Sean Mccoll and child prodigy Mirko Caballero to name but a few. With this incredible support, CAC continues to be a positive contributor to the global climbing community.

Seeing this change in the industry is nothing short of inspiring. With the climbing industry rapidly growing, there is comfort in the knowledge that our culture and community is one which is conscientious to both its environmental and social impact. 

John himself draws inspiration from our community and through all of the highs and lows of dealing with cancer, one thing has stayed consistent. John is always smiling. When asked why, John’s reply was simple “I smile because i’m always happy and see the bright side in everything”.

I hope that reading this article inspires you to think about how you can make a difference to your community and that maybe you too can see the good in everything, just as John has come to do. 

You can find out more about John, Climbers Against Cancer and their incredible efforts at on their website:  

www.ClimbersAgainstCancer.org.

 Reference: http://www.who.int

OutdoorFest: Live in the city, Love the Outdoors

Photo courtesy of OutdoorFest.

Since moving to New York in 2012, I've been continually surprised by the number outdoor enthusiasts and weekend warriors that call the city home.

Whether its driving eight hours for a couple of cherished days at Kentucky's Red River Gorge or waking up at 3am on a monday morning, to endure the freezing temperatures of the Rockaways "Dawn Patrol" surf scene.. 

These rebels of societal norms represent a growing sub culture of city dwellers that go to great lengths in order to get a fix of there chosen liberation. Often skipping that night out at the bar with friends in order to be on performance for the following days adventures.

Last year, while exploring New Yorks hectic networking scene, I met Sarah Knapp. Working for a local outdoor company, she emanated joyful enthusiasm and creative flair poured from behind her thin black lenses. 

It was clear from the start we shared big ideas and dreams. Both hungry for adventure and an un-shakable passion for the outdoors, we would geek out for hours in coffee shops about how we could make a difference to the community that we love.

A year on from our coffee house rendezvous's, and after consuming enough caffeine to power the entire state of Rhode Island, Sarah has launched her own outdoor festival named "OutdoorFest".

The festivals goal is simple, to get New Yorkers off the sofa, and active in the outdoors. Unlike traditional festivals, OutdoorFest does not take place in one central location. Instead, Companies and contributors from across the city participate by holding events in separate locations, spreading the outreach and allowing more people to take part. 

It's also entirely free.

Without a barrier to entry, the festival naturally scoops up many low income families who previously wouldn't have had the chance or even known that they could kayak the Hudson or trail run the Palisades Park.The community response to these events has is nothing short of astonishing. With last years events (albeit under a different name) engaging more than 6000 people, this year aims to be bigger and better!

This incredible event is currently raising money to help keep the it free. You can donate AND get some sweet perks in return by checking out the Indiegogo campaign below.

I will be hosting 2 events for the festival:

Urban Mountains
June 5th, 7pm @ REI Soho
I'll be talking about how being a passionate business developer lead me to write the guide to NYC and the struggles along the way as well as sharing the story of Climbers Against Cancer and how our incredible and unique community can make a difference.

Central Park Bouldering Tour
June 7th, 9am to 2pm @ Rat Rock (Umpire Rock)
Alongside The Cliffs and in support of Climbers Against Cancer and The Access Fund. I will be giving tours of the rocks in Central Park, sharing beta where wanted and doing some pebble wrestling with you good people.

I look forward to seeing you there!

Link:
http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/outdoorfest-live-in-the-city-love-the-outdoors/x/6594591

Birdsboro: The secret sport climbing of the east coast!

What's the best kept secret in East Coast sport climbing?

Home to over 120+ sport climbs with grades ranging from 5.4 to 5.14, Birdsboro is a little known sport crag that is neatly tucked away in a quiet corner of Pennsylvania.

Gaz Leah on Hinterland 5.12d

Development of the crag began back in 1993 when a handful of locals discovered the quarry, which at the time was buried under a blanket of poison ivy! The locals instantly recognised the potential for climbing on the many large faces of diabase rock, and quickly set about bolting their first line, "Zorro" 5.12a. Located on the "Wet Side", Zorro required very little cleaning, and an existing path leads straight to the base. 

This was the birthplace of Birdsboro climbing!

Birdsboro is unlike any crag you may have been to before. When you first arrive at the parking lot where the old road ends abruptly, you are greeted by a gently flowing river that is often packed with local fly fishermen (and women!). An old house sits on the far side of the river, which is now only accessible by taking the cable traverse, since the road washed away in the early 70's. And this is where the experience truly begins.

The second cable traverse

Crossing the wire cable, you continue your journey down a short section of the old route 82 which resembles little of its former self. Much of the road has been reclaimed by the earth leaving behind a narrow section of asphalt with yellow markings down the center. Passing over the old surviving bridge and alongside the working quarry, you reach the final cable traverse that leads the bottom of a short hill and the start of the climbing!

Upon reaching the top of the hill you find what is aptly titled; "The Bunker". It’s an old building once used by the quarry for storing dynamite that has now been re-purposed as a toilet for many visitors to the area. To the right is the Birdsboro notice board that is regularly stocked with the latest topo and news on the area. Beside it sits the bolt fund donation box and a choice of two paths that lead to the upper and lower tiers. Following the narrow path, the journey continues along the upper tier where the quarry opens up revealing its true beauty! 

The Main Wall

On one side, you catch a glimpse of the spectacular reservoir wall through the thin veil of trees and on the other side a large looming rock wall shoots upwards. This is the main wall, an area of the quarry that is popular with groups due to its variety of grades and varying angles. Here we met up with local climber, route equipper, and all around local legend Ted Coffelt to get the grand tour and learn more about the quarry.

As we walked along the upper tier, Ted points out each line we pass and tells us the story of its name and how it came to be. He explained to us how over the last twenty years, the quarry has undergone an incredible transformation; from a once overgrown ivy hole into its current state as staple for local outdoor enthusiasts. The area is now used for an extensive array of activities such as fly fishing, mountain biking, hiking, shooting, trail-running, and of course sport climbing. 

Ted pointing out the crag classics

We stop beneath the “Big Wall” and Ted points out one of his favourite lines, “Hinterland”. It’s a beautiful route that takes a direct line up the tallest part of the crag and is graded 5.10 to the first anchor and 5.12d to the second. At ninety feet long, it is a true test of endurance with the crux being at the very last move.

Ted highly recommends we try the route and we’re only too happy to oblige. Looking up at the wall, I couldn’t help but feel slightly intimidated by the sheer size of the wall. Slipping on my climbing shoes, I study the wall trying to figure out the moves and wondering if I have enough juice to climb such a long continuous overhang. I tied in and with a nod from my friend, I begin climbing. 

Bill Piehl on HinterLand,  

Moving carefully up the rock, I soon came to the first anchor and feeling pretty good, I decided to continue on to the top. The first few moves were manageable, but I soon found my forearms burning as the wall grew steeper and the holds became unmercifully smaller. I knew this attempt was soon over. Falling from the last clip, I lowered to the ground. Normally, I would find this disheartening and see it as a failure, but I didn’t feel disappointed. Instead, I was totally psyched at how amazing the route was and couldn't wait to try it again! I took a break and then got back on the sharp end, this time sticking all the moves and clipping the top anchor. 

It was apparent why Ted likes this route so much. It utilizes every move I've ever learnt in climbing from heal hooks to rock overs and even a dyno at the end. It truly was a full value route that just kept revealing new challenges. Ted was proud to see others having such a good time on the routes he and the locals had spent so many years bolting and maintaining.

Since visiting Birdsboro and meeting Ted, I've been truly inspired by the climbing there and believes that this is a place everyone should visit at least once. Whether you’re looking for a casual day out hiking or an adrenaline fueled day climbing, Birdsboro should be at the top of your places to visit in the area. 

Birdsboro Bolt Fund,

I hope this article piques your interest and encourages you to take the trip over to this great climbing spot. Please be respectful to the many people that use the area and pay thanks to those that have given their time and money to make this all possible. Above all though, have a great time!

INFO: 

The best place to find the latest information on Birdsboro Quarry is to use the website which is updated on a regular basis by the locals. Here you can find everything from the latest routes to the weather and more:

www.BirdsboroClimbing.com

Photography by Francois Lebeau

Assualt on El Capitan: Wings Of Steel

In 1982, two young guns, Mark Smith and Richard Jensen visited California's Yosemite Valley with the dream of establishing a first ascent on the global climbing stage of El Capitan.

After a record breaking thirty-nine days on the wall, they succeeded in pioneering a new route up the southwest face, naming it Wings Of Steel. The route journeyed over the infamous Great Slab, a glassy 1,000ft of featureless rock considered unclimbable by many.

The battle to climb the seemingly unconquerable route was fought on many fronts. The climbing aside, Mark and Richard were the subject of verbal harassment, threats of violence and sabotage to the climbing safety equipment from the territorial locals who were less than welcoming. 

The route went unrepeated for almost 30 years while the bitter controversy rumbled on. Disputes about the route would appear in online forums where climbers would speculate the ethics of the ascent. A handful second ascents was attempted, but failed before summiting, unable to overcome the difficulties of the route on its lower pitches. Yet the critics would continue to slander Mark and Richards efforts, denouncing it to be little more than a convoluted "bolt ladder".

Some three decades later, Yosemite veteran Ammon McNeely took up the challenge to repeat the route. Drawn to the climb by its mystery, he would lay to rest the rancorous stories that litter the internet. For Mark and Richard, Ammon's ascent would be the vindication they had desired for all these years.

Along with climbing partner Kait Barber and videographer Jeff Vargen, Assault on El Capitan tells a candid history of the routes establishment and the difficulties each team faced on their journey to the top. Featuring interviews from the key players in the story including climbing legends Ron Kauk and Steve Grossman, the film is more narrative than action thriller!

While the film does a great job at shedding light on the Wings of Steel debacle, it's clear that this film is made for the climbing community that has significant interest in the happenings of the valley. Non-climbers can also enjoy the film, being wowed by much of the portaledge footage, asking the regular question of "Do they sleep up there?" and finding humour in the ridiculousness of the ego's squabbling over "a piece of rock". 

It's truly embarrassing to be part of a community that would carry out many of the atrocious deeds they did to a fellow climber when viewed through the lens of a human and non climber. With this film, Jeff Vargen has achieved a compelling and educational insight into the climbing world that I hope will finally lay to rest the personal grudges between everyone involved and begin the healing process for the future of the sport. 

Assault on El Capitan

Produced by Accidental Productions, written and directed by Jeff Vargen

USA 2013, 68 minutes

Reviewed by Gaz Leah

Gear Junkie: Hanchor Chalk Bags

"Made in Taiwan" 

It's a label that doesn't normally inspire confidence in a quality product. 

There's a stereotype that products from Taiwan are made on low budgets and that the quality of products is not a concern for the manufacturer's. For me, the label often reminds me of the cheap stuffed toys you see in claw machines and budget windows based laptops. However, a new and innovative bag company called Hanchor has dared to challenge the stereotype! 

Through their Kickstarter campaign in which they aimed to raise $5000 for there initial product run, they smashed their target raising more than $20,000, allowing them to begin production on there two innovative new chalk bag designs. The Kangaroo and the Hula.

KANGAROO

At first glance, the Kangaroo looks like any other chalk bag on the market. It's when you look a little closer you discover there's something special about this bag. Inside, there's an expandable zip pouch that allows the climber a couple of different options. You can either leave the zipper open allowing the bag to be used as a regular chalk bag or alternatively, the zip can be closed forming a built in chalk ball. For me, this is perfect combination as I prefer the thick coverage of loose chalk for bouldering but the thin coating you get with a chalk ball for sport. 

HULA

The aptly named Hula is also innovative in its approach to chalking up. It provides a unique 360° internal chalk ball system that is designed to give the climber full hand coverage with every dip while preventing chalk from spilling. It's two side zips open easily allowing for a quick refill and its ergonomic opening makes dipping for chalk a breeze. 

THE WORD

When I first came across this new bag concept on kick starter, I was instantly curious and wanted to know whether or not they worked in practice as well as theory. When the bags arrived at my door, I couldn't wait to try them out and immediately hopped on the train to my local NY gym. Arriving there, I opened the bags up and unzipped the pockets inside, filling them with loose chalk. Closing the the zip and giving the socks a couple of squeezes, I quickly discovered that these products are like buying a new mattress, it needs "bedding in". When I first filled the pouches, I found it difficult to get adequate coverage until I'd used them a few times. Once the sock material had softened up, It allowed a much better flow of chalk. 

Three gym sessions in from when I first filled the bags and they're now performing just how I had envisioned. I personally prefer the Kangaroo over the Hula because I find its functionality better suited to my climbing styles and its slightly narrower opening easier to use. The Hula seems a little large for a sport bag and a bit small for bouldering bucket. I'd like to see how the ring idea evolves over time.

In terms of price, they're currently a little on the expensive side compared to other bags out there but I foresee that will change as they gain popularity. They could certainly expand their choice of bag colours too.

COST: $$$$

Kangaroo - $34
Hula - $37

FUNCTIONALITY: 

Kangaroo - 8 / 10
This bag is a cool new concept and works well but the bedding in part was a annoying. I would recommend this to be on every sport climbers wish list.

Hula - 7 / 10
I admire the innovative design of this product and I like the theory behind it. However, I don't think it works as well in practice as I expected. I'm psyched to see where this design trend leads.